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The northern half of the island — St. Martin — is a French holding while the southern half — St. (or Sint) Maarten — is Dutch, a part of the Netherlands Antilles. The split rewards visitors with two different cultures and two different vacation experiences. The French side has a charming atmosphere, with great bistros, cafes and French and Italian boutiques. The hotels are more elegant than on the Dutch side, the shops more chic, the pace somewhat slower. French is the common and official language.
The Dutch side has the larger town and better port (Philipsburg). It’s a popular stop for cruise ship. Casinos and music venues give it a more vibrant nightlife. Dutch is the official language but English is widely spoken and understood.
Despite the differences between the two sides, political relations are quite friendly, and there are no border or customs hassles in crossing between the two. This, combined with the small size of the island (only 37 sq mi/96 sq km), means that you can suit your tastes and explore *both* cultures.
The divided status of St. Martin/St. Maarten is a result of the colonial tug-of-war between European powers in the Caribbean. The island was inhabited well before Europeans arrived, however: An archaeological dig in St. Martin has unearthed tools and pottery from Amerindian settlers that have been dated to 550 BC. When Columbus landed on the island in 1493, St. Martin/St. Maarten had been taken over by the fierce and cannibalistic Caribs, which is why the Spanish never developed the island after claiming it. Dutch settlers arrived in the early 1600s, and every colonial power active in the Americas thereafter owned a piece of the island at one point or another. Legend has it that a Frenchman and a Dutchman finally settled an argument over territorial rights by pacing off their shares. Of the 37 sq mi/96 sq km, the French got the bigger slice, but the Dutch got the most valuable real estate — the Salt Pond and the harbor (the international airport is also on the Dutch side). The 1648 Treaty of Concordia marked the formal division. The Dutch part of the island is administered, along with the Netherlands Antilles, from Curacao, while the French part is administered from Guadeloupe.
Transportation
BWIA International, ALM-Antillean, American Airlines, USAir, Continental, KLM, Air France and Viasa serve Princess Juliana Airport (SXM), which is 7 mi/11 km west of Philipsburg.
A few flights to neighboring islands use the smaller Esperance Airport (SFG — also called Grand Case Airport), adjacent to Grand Case Village on the French side. Many smaller Caribbean air carriers include St. Martin/St. Maarten on their schedules, and many cruise ships stop in Philipsburg for a day. Transportation to nearby islands is available by air or sea.
Rental cars are available. Driving is on the right, and all foreign driver’s licenses are acceptable. There is only one main road that circles St. Martin/St. Maarten, so getting lost isn’t a problem. Be prepared for streets that are narrow, crowded and in poor condition, especially on the Dutch side. Taxis and motorbikes can also be used for touring, but if you’re riding a scooter, be careful: The roads are narrow and the drivers aggressive.
What to Buy
St. Maarten is a great place for duty-free shopping, with everything from jewelry and watches to china and crystal. Dutch chocolate and cheese, copper, enamelware, handblown perfume bottles, batiks, Delftware and liquor are also good buys. St. Martin is a good place to find upscale boutiques selling French and Italian sportswear and leather goods. You’ll also find French perfume at duty-free prices. There are some local handicrafts, but not a wide variety. As with any place in the world that labels itself "duty free", make sure you have a good idea of what things cost at home before buying. The lack of duties doesn’t guarantee a bargain.
Shopping Hours: Mon-Sat 9 am to noon and 2-6 pm. Banking Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 am to noon and 1:30-4:30 pm.